"We've Only Just Bagan to be Stupa'd" (sing to Karen Carpenter)

On the road again or should I say the river. We filled up our little lunch tins with noodles from the hotel, jumped on an open air taxi and made it to the boat by 6:30. This will be a twelve hour boat ride to Bagan from Mandalay down the Irrawaddy River. Dad often spoke of this river as his main navigational tool. The air here is thick with pollution. Smoke from the burning of sugar cane fields as well as fossil fuels. Makes for a stunningly beautiful sunrise but is hard on the lungs. Still, along the river, it gives a mystical feeling to the scenery. There were many interesting people on this trip. Met people from Germany, Australia, Canada and a Swiss girl who sort of adopted us. The Canadian has travelled all over the world. In his 50's now he has stories from this country 30 years ago. Kept us entertained with tales of travels in Afghanistan in the 70's. Crazy people in this world. A millionaire he still wants to travel in the cheapest way possible.
Along the river were many working boats, ferries and the odd village., Really interesting that there is little habitation along this river. Could be because the level rises so much during the monsoon.
Bagan is a fascinating area. As we approached the town we began to see Stupas rising in the distance. There are now more than 2000 stupas or holy sites here in Bagan. When Bagan was the capital in the 13th century there were more than 13000.
We rented bikes for two days which was the right way to go. Riding along the sandy lanes between stupas was magical. In the quiet you can imagine what life was like many years ago. If only there were still elephants, leopards and monkeys. There is little wildlife left here. Only a few sparrows and judging from the ones we saw on a stick at the restaurant last night, their time is limited!
Katherina (the Swiss girl) has accompanied us the last two days. She is a young art teacher and I am really appreciating her insite to the colours, wall paintings and carvings. At 29 she is taking a year to travel and expand her experience. Very interesting young woman.
We're getting good at figuring out the local food. For 39 cents all three of us had breakfast this morning. A lot of spice in lunch and dinners and a lot of oil in the breakfast 'breads'. Tasty though.
Tomorrow we head off to Kalaw where we hope to trek overland to Inle Lake. The local bus is only wood seating so my bicycle butt is going to feel it by tomorrow night. We hope to kick back some at Inle Lake. Could use a day to just wander.