Banging Bottoms to Battambang on Bumper Boats and Dusty Trucks

The mini bus got us at 6AM sharp and we got cushy seats. Good thing because 14 more people piled in with their lugguage to go to the boat dock. The dock area was chaos. Winding our way through the fish market to the boat area we passed very run down shacks. Poverty is very real here and this was our first real experience. There is so much building going on in the tourist areas that you aren't able to get a glance at the true Pol Pot legacy. Imagine killing everyone with an education and hoping to take everyone to the age of the Angkor Rule.... do or die. Anyway enough of that.... this is about a boat trip.
I was just getting settled in the long boat when, like magic, our Swiss friend Katharina appeared in the boat. With hundreds of boats to choose from it is amazing that she got on ours. We didn't even know she was in Siem Reap (our e-mails never connected). So this was to be a reunion and a new adventure.
The engine engaged (always a good sign) and we were off. Everyone leaving at the same time. We felt like we were in a carnival ride. Bumper boats to the lake. No kidding. You couldn't have your arms outside or they would be crushed. No one seemed concerned except the tourists. With that said we did manage to make it to the lake and then the engine died (in this case it was a good sign). It died so we could get a good look at our first floating village. All the houses were on barges. Some with vegetable gardens and pigs in pens. You couldn't be a sleep walker and survive for sure.
The lake rises around 4 meters during rainy season. The water floods the surrounding countryside. No stilt houses could survive so they build these houses and anchor them to the lake bottom by long bamboo poles. Quite something to see.
Across the lake the passageway narrows to become a wide river. Another settlement comes in to view. This time the houses line the edge and cling to the marsh. There are a few structures on concrete supports up on a hill. You can see the high water mark. Can't imagine what this place would be like in high water. You would be forever taking junk out of your prop or it would be constantly jammed.
Nets corral the fisn and drive them in to drop net on huge poles. The nets are very siminar to the Chinese nets we first saw in Malacca (Malaysia).
Village after village with marshy banks between all being pounded by the wake of the big boat. We crashed a few more times in to boats and the banks. Oh and yes... we did have to stop regularly to clean out the prop. Did I mention that when we were asked about the time this trip would take we were told between 4 and 12 hours? Next thing we knew we were pulling up to a dirt bank and told it was our destination. Seeing no large buildings remotely resembling a city, we were somewhat concerned. We climbed up the bank to the waiting trucks (?)! Our poor ageing butts sweating in 40C temperatures were branded on to the narrow metal bench. Baggage stored we betgan a very dusty (!!!) and bumpy (!!) trip to Battambang. A 20km trip that took almost 2 hours. Choking and covered in red dust we arrived in good spirits. It's amazing how adversity makes you good friends. We had a great trip through the countryside. Saw much more than we would have in the water (because you're so low) and have a good story to tell. Before I sign off I have to tell you that while I was waiting in the lobby of the hotel (it was Shane's turn to check the room) I read a sign stating the most wonderful thing to see in Babbambang was the wonderful amazing nature and villages. Figuring we'd already done that we bought a ticket to Phnom Pehn for the next day.
Saw the sights of the city and head off to the beach tomorrow. Ain't life grand. Ouch, it's still hard to sit.