S21 & The War Remnants Museum... a few thoughts
Before I go ahead with our adventure I need to reflect on two very different experiences that had so much impact on me. The first was in Phnom Pehn, Cambodia. A visit to S21. The following was taken from my journal.
Today I felt I needed to see the 'School' that was a prison and death camp for so many during the war. I don't know why I felt the need. Even after the experience I am not sure. Mankind's cruelty is beyond understanding. Little children were recruited to torture and kill. Beyond imagining what went on here. In the eyes of the elderly I still see the pain. Memories of fear and betrayal. Those alive were either lucky or members of the Khmer Rouge Revolution. Testamonies posted on the walls of the school include: "I did what I mus do to live"... " I gave my uncle a sign... do not know me or the whole family will be killed" A people who love their families so much. Family, history ancestors is what makes this country strong. Yet it is severed in this place, left only strings of continuity. Can a family survive this kind of destruction? If a body is not properly cremated it's spirit is left to haunt earth forever (Buddhist belief). If this is true then we are in a ghostland. Killing fields dot the countryside, cripples wander the streets, eyes reflect horrors and still life goes on. Valentines Day, New Years... hope, excitement, babies life. Truly resilient.
Less than a week later we were in Ho Chi Minh city. Here we decided to visit the War Remnants Museum. What kind of a name is that? The remants of war? Outside there are USA planes, tanks and bombs. Inside there is much information about war and how it started here in Vietnam. There was lots of information on the dollars spent by the USA to lose the war. Pictures tell of the farmers being tortured.... it goes on and on. What struck us was a small area where we were informed that the CIA trained north Vietnamese rebels to fight against the Japanese during the 2nd world war. Did they train them too well?
This museum showed pictures and cells that showed tactics used here to torture were the same as those used in Cambodia. The horrible atrocities were repeated and are being repeated in other parts of the world. Looking at a picture of a GI carrying body parts a man beside me quietly said: "Guantanamo Bay" I know it is not the same but really, when are we going to learn?
Here at this museum the most telling and poignant display were the pictures and testamonies of those maimed by agent orange. There are deformed pre-born babies in formaldahide...Babies born to parents affected by agent orange have terrible deformaties. This problem is still here in the present generation. What have we done to our world?
Enough said.... I just needed to say that here, amongst these wonderful, gentle people, you can't escape the fact that war turned neighbours and families in to enemies.
Now back to the adventure.

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