Boat Butts and Bike Butts at Inlay Lake

However you spell it... Inle or Inlay Lake... it is an amazing place in this world. Our first full day in Nyuang Shwe was spent just kicking back after the long trek from Kalaw. I had a bit of a chest infection (my turn... Shane was first) so am taking it easy.
After a day of rest we rented a boat with Mark and Katarina for a day on the lake. Just the four of us in the boat so we could ask the 'captain' to go where we wanted. Nice touch! We were able to get a close look at the fishermen who paddle their canoes in a curious way. They use one foot hooked around the paddle with the end kind of under their arm. This leaves hands free to maneuver their fishing nets and/or traps. Fascinating to watch. Didn't see any fish, however!!
Then we begin the tours of the villages on the lake. Very much like the tuk tuks in Bangkok you stop at one ABS after another (Another Bloody Shop). They did take us to the factories first which was interesting. The first stop was a metal work shop where they were making horrible looking machetes that they insisted we could take on the plane. Even the scissors looked lethal. Then on to the silk weaving factory. Seen lots of those before but they are always neat. Katarina and I bargained like a couple of girls and ended up with a silk shirt each. Mine a bright red. Mid life crisis strikes again!
The next ABS was a silver artisan shop. It was interesting to see them make rings and necklaces. Here I was able to buy a necklace (and matching earrings) just like the one Dad bought me when he was last here. The one he bought was stolen from our home last year.
Then on the the next ABS which was a cigar making factory. They aren't really factories they are just little family operations. Here they use rolled up newspapers for filters and manage to make the disgusting looking green cigars that men and women really enjoy here. Shane and Mark had one on the patio... we thought of taking some home to enjoy with friends (Bruce & Gord are you listening?) but after the second puff Shane decided he valued their friendship too much. Not even with brandy would they taste good!
All the time we were going to these stores we were meandering through the canals that make the main streets of these villages. Watching family life and saying many "Ming ga la bawh's" (hellos) along the way. At one village we were invited to be part of a wedding ceremony. Just an excuse to give a donation to the bride and groom but quite an experience never the less. The bride and groom are dressed to the nines in the most elaborate costumes. On a kind of throne under a fancy dias they sit ... all day long.... smiling and recieving gifts. When we were at the cigar factory we saw them going in the decorated boats to the local pagoda to offer gifts to Buddha. The final leg in the official part of the ceremony.
The next ABS (and the last) was an umbrella operation. Home made paper umbrellas made me think of the recycling project I was involved in in Katui slum, Nairobi, last year. Here the paper is cleaner and real flowers are pressed between sheets to form the design.
Now we said.... "No more shops!" We were ready for a trek (after all we'd had a day off!) We hiked up to the Shwe Inle Pagoda and off to another one as well ... that one was by mistake cause we missed the turn to the main pagoda!! This was a huge collection of stupas. Each one paid for by a family in honor of their ancestors. As we were on a family outing we chose this place for the four of us to have a family picture taken.
Back in the boat and on to the jumping cat pagoda. Yep... the cats jump! I would to if I was starving and it was the only way to get food.. Boy would I jump. Pretty place to see the sun getting low in the sky, though.
The sun set as we were on the lake almost back at Nyuang Shwe. With one of those amazing fishermen in the picture.... it was a magical day.
At Katarina's hotel we toasted our last full day together as a family. Great food and good friendship.
The next two days Shane and I rented bikes to enjoy the country side around Nyuang Shwe. Up to a couple of caves where friendly monks showed us around.... down along the lake to the hot springs. We even managed to find an Agro Forestry project sponsored by a Japanese NGO. Spent some time touring the project. Can't keep a good forester down!
Inlay Lake had clean(er) air then we were used to as well as many interesting things to do... see .... and eat!
We are getting pretty good at food stalls. The street food tends to be greasy but it is good. Haven't got sick yet (knock on wood).
From Inlay we took a 16hour bus ride to Bago... then we hopped a very nasty taxi to Kyaikto where we were sure that it would fall apart each time we bottemed out. The taxi left us at Kyaikto (though it was supposed to take us to Kinpun) and unceremoniously threw our luggage on the roof of the cab of a truck. These trucks have a capacity of about 20 inside on wooden benchs and another twenty up top. This one was carrying at least 60 including all the cauliflower, tomatoes etc that were bought at market. Needless to say it was another crushing experience. You make really 'close' friends on those trips!
Arriving in Kinpun was such a blessing. Almost 24 hours after leaving Inlay Lake. The hotel had a nice garden area and cold beer. We had arrived.
This is the town where you begin an 11 km trek to the Golden Rock. A rock balanced precariously on another rock it is, apparently, where a hair of Buddha was brought by a king on a boat. The boat was turned to Rock and is now gilded.
The next day we did the trek after an early breakfast. A long hot walk with many beautiful views. The area around the rock was like a Buddha Disney Land. So many people on pilgrimage, some in their beautiful native costumes. There was a party kind of atmosphere. Very enjoyable with the gaity and the cool breeze coming from the mountains.
The trip back to Kinpun, however, was a painful matter. After a 30 minute downhill trek to the truck stop we were again placed in the back of a truck. This one had little narrow wooden benches across the open back. Sixty people crammed in (Shane had to stand because his knees wouldn't fit). As we began a rapid descent we became part of the people adjacent to us. Bouncing on to their knees or other parts made us fast friends. A new friend joined us, Faye from Scotland. Her knees were shaking from the trek which I thought would bring her marriage proposals from the two men who were getting the benefit of the tremmors.
The town is quite small. Shane and I wandered around the outskirts and found where the people lived. Played with the kids and made friends with the adults.
Now we are back, again, in Yangon. Will probably go to the beach for a couple of days then we fly out to Phnom Phen.
It is next to impossible to get hotmail here in Burma. If anyone has anything important to tell us or even wants to say hi.... it is easiest to come on to this blog and add a comment. The access is denied for most e-mail.

Broken Butts and Throbbing feet lead us to beautiful Inle Lake

On the bus by 4:30. Mini bus means mini everything. I'm not very tall and my knees didn't fit nor did my butt. Because we started in the dark there were no last minute glances at the beautiful stupas in Bagan. There were, however, many opportunities to watch monks getting ready for their day. In one area there were at least 60 monks patiently waiting in a long line with their bowls waiting to be filled with rice by the local faithful. Such a different way of life.
Along the journey the bus kept picking up people till there was no more room. Thats when they started piling on top. When a group of 6 women, one very old and frail, came on Shane decided to join the men up top. Stayed there till the end of seven hour (read 12 hour) bus ride... he couldn't sit down properly for two days.
The trip took us through desert areas, rice paddies, peanut and cotton fields. Up in the mountains past lakes and many rivers to Kalaw where we are to spend the night.
But I can't end withoug relaying a few funny incidents. Like the gasoline refil where a ladder was brought out and placed just outside the side door.... a can with cheese cloth on top and a long hose running out of it was placed on top. Then gas was laddled in to another can which was poured in to the first one as gas passed through the hose to the tank under one of the seats. Ok now that's high tech. Ladies sleeping on the bus with their head on my shoulder ....men told to get off the roof because it was illegal until we got past a check point when they all piled back up. Only Shane and a French man were left on the top because the officials wouldn't hastle a foreigner. Besides that there was no room in the bus. I had about six ladies trying to get on my lap which was already severely compromised. Don't you just love local busses?
When we reached Kalaw we were met with a hill station that had a distinctly British feel. Found Sam, at Sam's restaurant, and booked our trek for tomorrow.
The next day we began our trek to Inle Lake.
Village life in Myanmar........... ahhhh.
At the end of our day trek we are in a small village where life goes on as it has for centuries. There are six of us travelling. It is a good group with a lot of common interests. One guide and 5 tourists.
Six hours thrugh beautiful countryside. At about 9AM we began our walk through the city to the south. The town was awake now though we culd still hear the monk's gong calling the faithful to fill their rice bowls.
This village is built on the hillside. It looks quite western till you look closely and see water buffalo walking the streets.
A peaceful walk as children run out to greet us with little gifts of flowers. Up a winding path under the trees with a cool breeze refreshingus. "Ming ga la bah, ming ga la bah...." hello, hello... the words greet us with genuine warmth. The narrow path takes us through rice paddies, and fields of peanuts, cauliflower, garlic (lots and lots of garlic) and even orange and plum trees. There are cherry trees in bloom but the fruit is not edible. Water buffalo take a rest in the many streams while farmers tend their crops. It is winter hre so many of the fields are not being cultivated.
Winter means cold nights with days climbing well over 30C.
Passing through mountain villages gives us a unique opportunity to see different styles of housing, costume and even cooking styles. At about 3:30 we walked in to the village where we were to spend the night.
Our first experience with friendly villagers was at lunch. This stop is no different. Smiling faces greet us as children stare shyly from the corner. Soon Mark has them laughing and we all take their pictures. With few foreigners it is still a novelty to see their photo.
Mark played soccar witht he monks while we wandered the village meeting the few locals. Only 30 families here but a big monastary. All boys must enter the monestary for at least a year as a young novice andin their 20's. It is also a form of free schooling for the poor.
Rice with vegetable dishes and chili dishes plus lots of condiments made dinner just as wonderful as lunch. Different tastes here in Myanmar.
The next day we woke to frost on the pumpkin, so to speak. Boy it was cold outside.
Took a few more people pictures then we were off for the day. Past fields of asters growing for sale as offerings to Buddha. Up narrow mountain paths through fields and forests.
Passed two men cutting logs with a pit saw. Appropriatly named as they were working it in a pit. Farther along Shane took a turn thrashing wheat with some ladies while I was busy scaring little kids with my white skin. It wasn't intentional and soon they warmed up to me.
This day was the most spectacular. There were a lot of upa and down paths and lots of dark red dust to make us look like a bunch of derilicts. Stopped at a train station for tea after a short walk on the rails... only had to jump off once to let the train pass.
In the late afternoon, as we neared our destination for the night, our little group was joined by the villagers and their cattle and ox carts as they made their way home. One half hour earlier or later and we would have missed this opportunity. As the group reached the top of the hill we turned off to the monestary where we were to spend the night. A beautiful teak building with only two resident monks and seven novices using it. We slept well in a room off from the main room where there was, thankfully, no smoke.
Early the next morning we were woken by the sound of monks chanting. It was magical.
The day began early as we had a long way to go to the lake. It was not spectacular scenery but still so wonderful to pass through mountain villages and say hi to the people.
We reached Inle Lake intact, weary and excited. This is where we board a longboat for a long journey to Nyuang Shwe.
The boat takes us past communities built over the water where everyday life is quite different from what we've see before. A kind of floating community which I will talk about late after we do a few canoe trips. For now I will just mention that it was wonderful to rest our feet.... eat our lunch.... and view life along the shore as we made our way to a nice comfy bed.
Resting our sore feet and remembering, through all the pictures, the country we had just experienced.

"We've Only Just Bagan to be Stupa'd" (sing to Karen Carpenter)

On the road again or should I say the river. We filled up our little lunch tins with noodles from the hotel, jumped on an open air taxi and made it to the boat by 6:30. This will be a twelve hour boat ride to Bagan from Mandalay down the Irrawaddy River. Dad often spoke of this river as his main navigational tool. The air here is thick with pollution. Smoke from the burning of sugar cane fields as well as fossil fuels. Makes for a stunningly beautiful sunrise but is hard on the lungs. Still, along the river, it gives a mystical feeling to the scenery. There were many interesting people on this trip. Met people from Germany, Australia, Canada and a Swiss girl who sort of adopted us. The Canadian has travelled all over the world. In his 50's now he has stories from this country 30 years ago. Kept us entertained with tales of travels in Afghanistan in the 70's. Crazy people in this world. A millionaire he still wants to travel in the cheapest way possible.
Along the river were many working boats, ferries and the odd village., Really interesting that there is little habitation along this river. Could be because the level rises so much during the monsoon.
Bagan is a fascinating area. As we approached the town we began to see Stupas rising in the distance. There are now more than 2000 stupas or holy sites here in Bagan. When Bagan was the capital in the 13th century there were more than 13000.
We rented bikes for two days which was the right way to go. Riding along the sandy lanes between stupas was magical. In the quiet you can imagine what life was like many years ago. If only there were still elephants, leopards and monkeys. There is little wildlife left here. Only a few sparrows and judging from the ones we saw on a stick at the restaurant last night, their time is limited!
Katherina (the Swiss girl) has accompanied us the last two days. She is a young art teacher and I am really appreciating her insite to the colours, wall paintings and carvings. At 29 she is taking a year to travel and expand her experience. Very interesting young woman.
We're getting good at figuring out the local food. For 39 cents all three of us had breakfast this morning. A lot of spice in lunch and dinners and a lot of oil in the breakfast 'breads'. Tasty though.
Tomorrow we head off to Kalaw where we hope to trek overland to Inle Lake. The local bus is only wood seating so my bicycle butt is going to feel it by tomorrow night. We hope to kick back some at Inle Lake. Could use a day to just wander.

So a man named Titty takes us to a place called Sagaing to see a breast shaped Pagoda??!

Couldn't think of a better way to shorten the name for this blog... it was just too cute! We spent two full days in Mandalay. The first was spent getting lost in the back streets... visiting the palace... climbing up many many steps to Mandalay Hill as well as meeting monks as we wandered through their monestary (having gotten just a little lost on 14th street and 66th). The monks invited us to join them at their University to speak English.... I didn't understand them at first and will always regret that I said "after we see this sight" ... instead of "Sure ... I'm there!". When we excited the site they were gone... Oh well... we met many other people as we tried to find the world's largest book. Walked past it twice thinking the huge enclosure was just another massive number of stupas. The white stupas were sheltering a 'page' of the book. Probably covered a couple of acres.
We met a wonderful tri-shaw driver who spoke very good English and gave us lots of information. He also loves his job and love this that and the other thing. Very enjoyable ride home.
The hotel we booked had a pool which I must say, after a thousand steps to the hill, was a pleasure to come home to.
The next day we hired a driver to take us to the sites out of town. These included the Sagaing Pagoda and the view of the Breast shaped Pagoda. Shane had nightmares with the thought of sagging breasts reminding him of Southern Ethiopia.
We went to a tapestry factory which was really just a few women sewing beads and sequins on to velvet cloth. I bought a chinthe (lion) which reminded me of the book Dad published. There was a chinthe on the cover. Don't have a clue what I'll do with it. Will probably turn in to a pillow cover.
Part of the day took us to Amapura where we walked along a 1.2km teak bridge across the lake to a small village. Interesting but so many tourists. It was fascinating to watch the fishermen. Two lines of boats slap the waters scaring fish to the nets. They sort of circle the wagons trapping the fish inside. It is quite beautiful to watch.
Back on the road I was reminded of the story we were told about the whims of those in power. Apparently it was decided that the country would get ahead if they drove on the right so one day everyone was told to change. Overnight! I can't imagine the chaos the next morning.
Everyone here carries their lunch to work in three tiered cans that lock together. On the way back we stopped at the market and bought one of these and a couple of spoons as well as food for our journey tomorrow. The boat to Bagan.

Rockin' the Rails to Mandalay

The visit to the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon left me a little teary. After filling our travelling mugs with (not great) coffee we headed off in the cool of the morning to capture the early sun on this spectacular site. The Shwedagon Stupa is guilded in 53 metric tons of gold leaf and assorted hundreds of precious stones. Not sure if that is true but it really is a magnificent site. Early morning worshipers chanted & made their offerings of flowers or cash etc. as we silently watched from the sidelines. The area is huge with many stupas and temples surrounding the huge golden stupa. There is so much to learn here. What all the different temples symbolize and what the different gifts signify. I'll never learn it all but it is fun to ask questions and watch and learn.
Later in the day we wandered around through Kandawgyi Lake area. It's a beautiful park in the middle of Yangon with the strangest Chicken Palace set right in the water. I'm not too sure what the thing is with chickens but we've seen quite a few of them all guilded and obviously much to be admired. Will keep asking questions.
The next morning began our trip to Mandalay. I've been on a lot of train rides in many different countries but this one is right up there with the most unique. We blew the air brakes on more than one occasion which made us pretty late... the spare parts for various things that should be connected could be seen jumping around on the floor (no bolts attached) as we hit yet another bump on the rails. On more than one occasion you could actually feel the metal wheels lose their purchace on the rails. It was at one of these 'bumps' that Shane mentioned to me that, in his research, he had read that this train frequently derails. Yeah....OK... so what are we doing here? We were in upper class coach which meant reclining seats and leg room.... Well the seats reclined (Shane's couldn't be budged from that position) and the leg room... what that meant was that if you stretched out the whole seat rotated sideways (that means the block of two seats). Could possibly have had something to do with the spare parts sliding around on the floor. Oh yes... and if you didn't eat the food you brought with you than the rather fat little mouse hanging around would make a run for it. First class.... you bet!
Seventeen hours later we arrived in Mandalay. Now the trip wasn't all that bad. We actually had a lot of fun meeting people. You can do a lot of that while the air brakes are being repaired. The countryside was really interesting as well. From rice fields, sugar cane, peas and I think tomatoes to the beautiful teak houses on stilts and the water buffalo pulling big wheeled carts. All very different and very interesting.
Today... having recovered from the train ride with a sleep in to almost 8AM... we put on our walking shoes and headed off to see the town. It really is quite beautiful here. The Royal Palace (though rebuilt after the Japanese destroyed it in WWII) is a huge compound surrounded by a wide moat. Later in the day we climbed Mandalay Hill where we were better able to appreciate the size of the palace grounds.
Wandering around we got lost... true to Browne-Clayton's nature... and found ourselves in a most interesting part of town. Had a cold beer and watched the world go by.
This is the way we like to travel. No, really, getting lost is part of the fun. We meet the most astonished people when we turn up in neighbourhoods where tourists don't usually go. The people here are very friendly. People want your business but they don't hastle you. It really is a country where you can relax and enjoy your surroundings. Everyone has a smile for you... even those in uniform.
Tomorrow we are hiring a car and going to the outskirts of town. The next day it is down the river to Bagan.

Tired Days of Turbulant Travel To Total Chaos then (ahhh) Myanmar

Our adventure really began with an eight wheel skid down a slippery slope on the Coquihalla highway while white knuckling in our seats on the Greyhound Bus. Fortunately Mike, our driver, was able to maneuver around the six cars in the ditch as well as the tow truck and two trucks facing us on the inside lane. OK, so we survived that one.... what was next? After a couple of great days with my sister we took our first flight to Seattle. I was a little nervous as the little plane bounced and shook trying to fight cross winds. In Seattle we ran in to Stan and Gayle, our neighbours which was a surprise... then, after a four hour rest we entered our first third world country on this trip... otherwise known as LAX (Los Angeles Airport). Total breakdown in infrastructure it was utter chaos. Suffice to say there were at least 200 people outside the building waiting to get through security. We were lucky enough to find the terminal (not a lot of help there) then pushed past everyone to get on our flight. The two hour layover where we had hoped to sip a nice cold beer and people watch... turned in to an episode from the Amazing Race. We won!!
That flight was facing head winds of up to 140km/hr which put us another hour or more behind schedule. Good thing there was no connection in Bangkok!
The new Bangkok airport is absolutely beautiful. It surpasses Singapore in my opinion. We found our way to Sukumavit Road and Suk 11 Guesthouse. Cute little place off the main road and surprisingly quiet until last night around 3:23AM (!!) when a few Auzies decided to sing their way home from the bar. Oh well.. it was cute, clean and cheap.
After a day resting from our Turbulant Travels we spent yesterday getting our money's worth out of a LRT day pass. Went from one end to the other with a lot of walking through our favourite part of Bangkok.... the Chinese shopping district. Lots of delicious street food which I couldn't identify but really enjoyed. Got some great reading glasses for about $1.50 each. In the evening we discovered the delights of shopping center food courts in Bangkok. They ain't anything like what we have back home. If felt like 5 star dining. Full fat and happy we collapsed on the bed and slept (until 3:23AM!!).
Having just arrived in Myanmar there is not much I can say except I keep thinking of my Father. He was here during WWII and had so much love for the country and the people. He wanted Shane and I to come if we could which is the chief reason I'm here. The hotel I booked on the internet said it was near the Temple.... little did I know we can see it from our window. This is the one place Dad wanted to see again and wanted us to see. He was fortunate to come back a few years ago with the Canadian Forces. We were not able to visit Myanmar (Burma) in 1993 when Dad, Celia and I were in India so this is a dream long in the process. Tomorrow we will visit the site.
With that in mind I will sign off. I think I'll join Shane for a rest then, when the sun is lower, we will go and explore this fascinating city, Yangon.

shane & mary's adventures

shane & mary's adventures

The day after tomorrow we begin our next adventure. Normally I am off the wall excited when the time approaches. This year, however, I am feeling ........ well I'm not sure what I'm feeling. Last years experience (four months in Africa) was life changing. That sounds trite... trite but all too true! Overcome with emotion, it took a few months before I could speak freely about the people we met. It's easy to talk about the animals and the crazy bus rides..... however the people in Kenya (both up country and in the slums) taught me love, tenacity and real joy. To find joy in the poorest of conditions was humbling for me. I could go on and on about our rich society but this is another time. I am on the verge of another adventure. I suppose these conflicting emotions have their roots in past memories. When you open yourself to the needs of others you also open yourself to the pain of growing emotionally and spiritually.

Our new adventure. will begin in Burma........... My father was in Burma (Myanmar) during WW II. He spoke so often about the country and the people. Fascinated with the religion and culture of both Burma and India, my father used his R&R time to compile a book which was not only a remembrance for his fellow Squadron members but also an in depth study of the peoples of those regions. Here, over 60 years later, I find myself re-reading his book and planning for a month in Burma. There is still conflict in the area which has left me wondering if it is right to go at this time. What I read on web sites like Amnesty International had me second guessing this decision. It is, however, one of my father's dreams that Shane and I should visit his beloved Burma. Before he died we spoke of the possibility. In the 80's I travelled with my father and my youngest daughter to India. At that time we were not allowed to enter Burma as civil war was ongoing. Now, in relative calm, I will make my way to the areas Dad spoke about so often.

After a month in Burma we are planning to travel through Cambodia to Vietnam.... through Vietnam and across Laos to northern Thailand where we will work our way south to Bangkok. From Bangkok we will make a stop in Singapore to visit our friends and hug their twin girls... our little Chinese grand-daughters.

The bombing in Bangkok has put a damper on our enthusiasm ... but like Shane says "When a bomb goes off... security gets tighter and it is probably the safest time to go". I assure you that we don't go bar hopping and we stay away from crowds.

Keep us in your prayers for a safe and exciting three months in Asia.











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