Cost Very Few Dong to Follow Thong to Gao Dai & the CuChi Tunnels

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) was surprisingly cosmopolitan. There is so much building going on here. It is a country alive with promise. We spent three days in the city doing a few walk abouts and spending one day out in the country. The people here love kitsch... I think that's a word. It is the only way I can describe their love of colour, playfullness, theme parks, flowers etc. etc. We had a great time exploring the city and finding great (and not so great) food. The only way to find great food is to follow the locals. Street stalls are wonderful. Restaurants, on the whole, are geared towards tourists and, therefore, pretty bland.
Out in the country we went to the CuChi tunnels to see how the local minority group fought against the South. Even this area is like a war theme park. It was pretty interesting to climb through the tunnel.... made 40% larger to accommodate our north american bodies (thought that was pretty rude!). Shane was the first to climb down the sniper hole and I led the pack at the first entrance. The real tunnel didn't even reach my knee.... needless to say I just took a peek.
The other experience of the day (besides the usual stop at an ABS [another bloody store]) was a visit at the Gao Dai Temple. This is a new religion which attempts to combine popular religions in to one very meditative experience. True to Vietnamese way, there was a lot of colour and kitsch to the temple and surrounding park. The park had a series of moving (literally) displays which showed the founding of the religion. Colour, lights flashing, water (?) falling and people snapping pictures. Great fun. Inside the temple we were able to see some of their service. The grand plan is to get to the nineth station (or level) before you die and thus attain nirvana without having to go through the process of being re-born. Good idea. I actually found the prayer and the idea quite moving. A haunting prayer was chanted by a choir as well as the worshipers giving a meditative calm to the atmosphere. This in spite of the pushing and shoving by the tourists on the balcony overlooking the congregation.
The religion is an amalgamation of Buddhist, Taoism, Christianity, Muslim and Confucious. There is a strange collection of saints including Victor Hugo of all people. The man who came up with this idea apparently communed to many people including William Shakespear & Lenin as well as Louis Pasteur, among others.
This is indeed a strange and wonderful country. We left Saigon for the south central interior and a place called Dalat. We're not finished here so will update on the next blog. We go from Dalat to Nha Trang tomorrow. Beaching it again!

S21 & The War Remnants Museum... a few thoughts

Before I go ahead with our adventure I need to reflect on two very different experiences that had so much impact on me. The first was in Phnom Pehn, Cambodia. A visit to S21. The following was taken from my journal.

Today I felt I needed to see the 'School' that was a prison and death camp for so many during the war. I don't know why I felt the need. Even after the experience I am not sure. Mankind's cruelty is beyond understanding. Little children were recruited to torture and kill. Beyond imagining what went on here. In the eyes of the elderly I still see the pain. Memories of fear and betrayal. Those alive were either lucky or members of the Khmer Rouge Revolution. Testamonies posted on the walls of the school include: "I did what I mus do to live"... " I gave my uncle a sign... do not know me or the whole family will be killed" A people who love their families so much. Family, history ancestors is what makes this country strong. Yet it is severed in this place, left only strings of continuity. Can a family survive this kind of destruction? If a body is not properly cremated it's spirit is left to haunt earth forever (Buddhist belief). If this is true then we are in a ghostland. Killing fields dot the countryside, cripples wander the streets, eyes reflect horrors and still life goes on. Valentines Day, New Years... hope, excitement, babies life. Truly resilient.

Less than a week later we were in Ho Chi Minh city. Here we decided to visit the War Remnants Museum. What kind of a name is that? The remants of war? Outside there are USA planes, tanks and bombs. Inside there is much information about war and how it started here in Vietnam. There was lots of information on the dollars spent by the USA to lose the war. Pictures tell of the farmers being tortured.... it goes on and on. What struck us was a small area where we were informed that the CIA trained north Vietnamese rebels to fight against the Japanese during the 2nd world war. Did they train them too well?
This museum showed pictures and cells that showed tactics used here to torture were the same as those used in Cambodia. The horrible atrocities were repeated and are being repeated in other parts of the world. Looking at a picture of a GI carrying body parts a man beside me quietly said: "Guantanamo Bay" I know it is not the same but really, when are we going to learn?
Here at this museum the most telling and poignant display were the pictures and testamonies of those maimed by agent orange. There are deformed pre-born babies in formaldahide...Babies born to parents affected by agent orange have terrible deformaties. This problem is still here in the present generation. What have we done to our world?

Enough said.... I just needed to say that here, amongst these wonderful, gentle people, you can't escape the fact that war turned neighbours and families in to enemies.
Now back to the adventure.

Phnom Pehn to Saigon by Buses, Boats and a Lot of Good Luck

We're here in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and I'm still not sure exactly if we arrived on a tour or by a giant overactive people moving company.
We booked a tour which promised air con buses and comfortable boats. Well... the first bus had air conditioning in 1968 when it was built. Does that count?
We really had a good time so I hope I don't sound like I'm whining. The mantra I adopted last year still holds true. It isn't the destination, it's the journey. And this was a journey. The trip across this border hasn't been open all that long so they are still working out the kinks. We left on a short bus ride to the pier. Three hours later we were in another city at their pier. We just thought we were leaving from Phnom Pehn..... by boat. Then we walked down a slippery muddy slope to board a boat that was probably used during the second world war. It did have padded seats but backs... well, I guess you don't really need them. This boat took us to the border where we went up another slippery slope (?!) and were whisked through customs only to wait half an hour or more to get back on the same boat. Then we went to Vietnam and climbed another slippery slope only to wade through the money changers and pop sellers to have our passports taken away while we were all herded to a cafe for lunch. God help you if you wanted to go to another cafe. The people movers want to know where you are at all times. An hour later half the passports were returned and, you guessed it, Shane and I were still sitting there watching the first group leave in yet another boat. Eventually we were on our way, passports stamped and stowed. The trip along the Mekong was pretty lazy. The water level is way down so there was not much to see along the wide expanse. We eventually turned on to a tributary where it got quite interesting. There were villages along either side of the river now. Lots of fishing boats and freighters going back and forth. The larger boats have eyes painted on them for good luck and most of them also had yellow crysanthamums (sp?) as well as incense sticks. Made for quite a colourful picture. Eventually we landed in Chau Doc for the night. We opted for a guesthouse in the country so the ship took the 7 of us off for another half hour ride. It was a good choice. Up on a rocky hillside overlooking the Mekong Delta with it's beautiful rice fields. Quiet but not any cooler. The temperature here is in the high 30's with a high humidity to match. I miss the temperate climate of Burma.
Next day we headed back in the boat for what we thought was to be a full day. Nope... we saw a fish farm and a Cham minority village (read: weaving store), then we were put off for a walk to a hotel where we waited for an hour till we were shuffled off to a local bus. There they wanted to charge Shane and I 100,000R because we couldn't find where I had put the ticket. Thinking we were on a tour I wasn't too concerned. Anyway, having a menopausal woman shoot daggers from her blue eyes made him cower to a corner with no more mention of money. I spent the next 5 hours with a Vietnamese man trying his best to take over my seat on the bus. It was better than one of our group that was literally crushed by a woman smuggling cigarettes under her clothes. He has a bruise on his leg from the sharp boxes. Suffice to say this was not a tourist air con bus but what I like to call the 'chicken' bus. We did arrive alive to a town called Can Tho. Really nice little town on the water. We did a little walking tour and were very impressed by the people and the laid back atmosphere.
Next day we were on the bus/boat again. This time we were joined by a group from Saigon doing the Mekong Delta tour. That meant a real air con bus (yeah!!) and an actual tour guide that spoke English. Did a boat tour of the floating wholesale market as well as a retail market. Very (!!) different from the tourist markets in Bangkok. This was the real thing. We did enjoy this day on the water. Visited a small village, saw rice noodles being made, walked across narrow bamboo bridges on a walking tour and got some good information. The people in the country are lovely. Friendly and not out to get anything from you. Back on the real bus but it only lasted for a while before we were herded on to another smaller but for the last three hours to Saigon.
So, all in all, there were about 6 boats and 7 buses (including the SUVs used to transfer us to various buses).
Here we are in Saigon. Found our hotel which is in a great part of the city and plan to stay here for three nights. Then north through south central highlands to Dalat. We have decided to spend a month here in Vietnam and skip Laos. Sad, but there isn't enough time to do it all 'right'. Will have to combine Laos with a trip to China in the future.
Oh, I forgot to mention, we were most impressed with Vietnam for decorating everything in honour of our visit. It could have something to do with Tet (new years) but we prefer it is just all for us. Everywhere you look things are painted and flowers are everywhere. Many businesses are closed all week in Tet's honour and there are still Dragon dances going on daily. Very nice of them, don't you think?
That's all for now............

Bringing in the "Year of the Pig" In Sunny Sihanoukville

Or, as I like to refer to it, beaching it on the hot white sands.... with a few fire crackers thrown in!
Left Phnom Pehn for a kick back at the beach in a luxury bus that left (almost) on time and arrived on time with no break downs. And the air conditioning worked. I think we've entered the twilight zone.
Travelling south from Phnom Pehn we passed the usual rice fields rapidly being transformed in to industrial parks. The closer we got to the beach there actually were hills on the horizon. Seems strange to have sandy soils inland and a rocky coast line. The beach, however, was very white and very beautiful. Much more built up here (compared to Myanmar) it is still not as crazy as Thai beaches. Not wanting to be left behind the number of touts is increasing daily along with the number of plastic bags tossed any which way. In spite of this we did manage to get to some secluded spots that were clean and beautiful.
Each morning, before the sun got too hot, we did a power walk along a deserted stretch of beach. The place we were staying in was near the end of the 'strip'which made for a long walk to town and a short walk to quiet beaches. Good choice.
We managed the walk to town a couple of times. We have all we need here, however, and were quite content to just wander around trying to decide what seafood we would like to try next. There is no shortage of people trying to sell you prawns, crab, lobster and some things that have yet to be identified. And the beer is cold (for the most part).
We were lucky to get a room as this is the busiest time of the year in Asia. The bus cost of the bus ticket went up a dollar overnight (they use US$ and Riel mixed here). Needless to say we got our return ticket as soon as we arrived. No telling what it would have cost the Monday after the long weekend!
There is another side to the beaches, though. A side that needs telling.

.........In front of me a man with no lower limbs creeps by. "Hello Mister... I need food". The closer he comes to us the harder my heart beats. This cou7ntry is still at war. Still with the unseen forces of land mines. All day people pass us, some with no hands, no legs, one, two or all limbs mangled in some way. One man, with no sight left, wanders down the beach singing songs. His little girl, maybe 4 or 5, guides him by holding one end of the stick he grasps. She know, even at her young age, who looks likely to give money. Some are not content with small bills. They ask for 1,000 or $1US. We have heard the beggars are well off here. Many victims, and there are many, can not travel the distance to tourist spots. They must rely on the charity of their families. Every family in Cambodia has some one that needs their help.l Little kids play catch with a bright object they don't understand only be killed or find their lives changed forever. Older men or women go for an ordinary day working in fields they have been in many times..... only this time they step in the wrong place.
Now, here on the beach, we sit in relaxed luxury. Every tourist here paid more to get here than some of these people will see in their lifetime. What they have seen, I pray we never will experience.
Again the question haunts us. Do we give or do we give elsewhere? How much? Where? Will it do any good? The only solution I can see is to find a group that gives training to the disabled. If they are not corrupt and if their training is adequate, then these people have a chance to regain their dignity and 'live'again. It's a difficult thing to come to grips with.

However, with that said, we were able to find peace in this beautiful peace. That is until today which was New Years Day. Everywhere you looked were locals here to enjoy the day with family. It was wonderful to watch. Grown men acting like 3 yr olds.... women, fully dressed, bobbing around in the surf. We had a great day... a great 4 days.... and tomorrow we leave for Phnom Pehn and hopefully on the next day to Vietnam.

Banging Bottoms to Battambang on Bumper Boats and Dusty Trucks

The mini bus got us at 6AM sharp and we got cushy seats. Good thing because 14 more people piled in with their lugguage to go to the boat dock. The dock area was chaos. Winding our way through the fish market to the boat area we passed very run down shacks. Poverty is very real here and this was our first real experience. There is so much building going on in the tourist areas that you aren't able to get a glance at the true Pol Pot legacy. Imagine killing everyone with an education and hoping to take everyone to the age of the Angkor Rule.... do or die. Anyway enough of that.... this is about a boat trip.
I was just getting settled in the long boat when, like magic, our Swiss friend Katharina appeared in the boat. With hundreds of boats to choose from it is amazing that she got on ours. We didn't even know she was in Siem Reap (our e-mails never connected). So this was to be a reunion and a new adventure.
The engine engaged (always a good sign) and we were off. Everyone leaving at the same time. We felt like we were in a carnival ride. Bumper boats to the lake. No kidding. You couldn't have your arms outside or they would be crushed. No one seemed concerned except the tourists. With that said we did manage to make it to the lake and then the engine died (in this case it was a good sign). It died so we could get a good look at our first floating village. All the houses were on barges. Some with vegetable gardens and pigs in pens. You couldn't be a sleep walker and survive for sure.
The lake rises around 4 meters during rainy season. The water floods the surrounding countryside. No stilt houses could survive so they build these houses and anchor them to the lake bottom by long bamboo poles. Quite something to see.
Across the lake the passageway narrows to become a wide river. Another settlement comes in to view. This time the houses line the edge and cling to the marsh. There are a few structures on concrete supports up on a hill. You can see the high water mark. Can't imagine what this place would be like in high water. You would be forever taking junk out of your prop or it would be constantly jammed.
Nets corral the fisn and drive them in to drop net on huge poles. The nets are very siminar to the Chinese nets we first saw in Malacca (Malaysia).
Village after village with marshy banks between all being pounded by the wake of the big boat. We crashed a few more times in to boats and the banks. Oh and yes... we did have to stop regularly to clean out the prop. Did I mention that when we were asked about the time this trip would take we were told between 4 and 12 hours? Next thing we knew we were pulling up to a dirt bank and told it was our destination. Seeing no large buildings remotely resembling a city, we were somewhat concerned. We climbed up the bank to the waiting trucks (?)! Our poor ageing butts sweating in 40C temperatures were branded on to the narrow metal bench. Baggage stored we betgan a very dusty (!!!) and bumpy (!!) trip to Battambang. A 20km trip that took almost 2 hours. Choking and covered in red dust we arrived in good spirits. It's amazing how adversity makes you good friends. We had a great trip through the countryside. Saw much more than we would have in the water (because you're so low) and have a good story to tell. Before I sign off I have to tell you that while I was waiting in the lobby of the hotel (it was Shane's turn to check the room) I read a sign stating the most wonderful thing to see in Babbambang was the wonderful amazing nature and villages. Figuring we'd already done that we bought a ticket to Phnom Pehn for the next day.
Saw the sights of the city and head off to the beach tomorrow. Ain't life grand. Ouch, it's still hard to sit.

King Yasodharesvara declares himself: "The Lord of the One Who Bears Glory"

And so it started. The king moved the capital of his newly conquered territories to the area surrounding Siem Reap.
Fired up on Johnny Walker (gas comes in old bottles) ,Tuk Tuk driver #5070 (otherwise known as Lee) kicks it up as we enjoy a three day tour of the Temple complexes surrounding Siem Reap.
Our first stop was Angkor Wat. An impressive, fairly intact, collection of buildings made to represent Mt Meru (in the center and the mythical mountain in Hindu faith), the surrounding continents and oceans. Very interesting it took us quite some time to see it all. Shane climbed to the top (I didn't as I was wearing a skirt) and got quite the view.
Though Angkor Wat is what the area is famous for, and in the middle of a battle to be claimed as the next wonder of the world, it really wasn't the highlight for us.
There are other temples that are varied and fascinating. Some that were fascinating just because they were in a chaos of ruins having been taken over by the jungle. Others because of the amazing faces carved in the stones. One of the temples (Bayon) had faces nearly 3 meters high that seemed to watch you from all directions. There were no perpendicular intersecting lines in the whole place. It was wonderful to get lost in both physically and spiritually.
By day three we had seen most of the temples in the area. We are, as they say, templed out! However, the variety kept us interested right to the end.
King Yasodharesvara was the first to proclaim himself a diety. From that point on each successive King built a complex to proclaim his (or in one case her) glory. There is only one case I read about where an old complex was refurbished.... it seems they all wanted a little piece of the rock for themselves.
The styles of architecture changed over the years (907AD - early 16th century) as did the intricate nature of their carvings. On the Leper King's dias there are carvings that had been buried that look like they are new having only been uncovered in the last 50 years.
Where in the world are we?? We are always asking that question. It is amazing to realize where we are ... a former Kingdom that had over 1 million inhabitants in the city of Angkor Wat (at the height of it's power in the 11 - 12th century). That was a time when London only had about 50,000 people and still thought they were the cat's ass!!
It is easy to imagine the grandure of this area when the painting was fresh, the stucco uncracked and the teak and gold structures firmly secured to the temple platforms. Sitting on top of Takeo temple we could feel the cool breeze, see out to the far reaches and imagine the days when this was an area surrounded by jungle and teeming with human activity.
Tomorrow we take the boat to Battambang then head south. Well, that's the plan anyway. Will let you know.

From Fractured Myanmar to Funky Bangkok & Beyond... Destination Cambodia

Thoughts at leaving Myanmar....... As we go down the busy streets of Yangon I think of my father and his first and last impressions of this country. Busy people eting a quick breakfast at th side of the pollution riddled roadway... Red spittle in the dust and dirt (beetle nut)...
How people live in the city amazes me. Yet they are, on the whole, very joyful, not just happy. They have a look of hope or is it just acceptance of the inevitable?
"Tell our story in your country, Get the message out!!" This is what we herd nd other tourists shaed about their encounters with the locals. This country does not need embargos, it needs a return (?) to democracy. Get rid of the fear these people live with daily. You can't even trust a beggar or a hawker on the street. intelligence is an iteresting word used to describe secret police. If they were intelligent would they infom on innocent people who quietly voice their opinions?
We were told of an instance where a beggar on the street was recognized by a citizen as a fellow student and friend. When he approached the young man he clearly got a signal to stay away. later, at a tea shop, he ran in to him again where he was told that he wa with the secret service. You can't trust your friends or even some of your own family.
How can you be happy and feel fear? Somehow these people pull it off.
Inflation is rampant. Gas reserves are sold off to other countries while rationing goes on leaving businesses crippled as their vehicles stand at the side of the road waiting... the cost of gas on the black market is $5 / gallon and the wages start at #30 / month. Rice is $7 / kilo.... on the other side of the coin anyone working for the military gets at least double the average wage.... doctors and professionals even more
These thoughts still work in my mind as w enter another world. From the fredom of being able to wite information in my journal to the chaotic freeedom of Khao San Rd in Bangkok. Absolute craziness in a carnival atmosphere. Have I been transported to Height Ashbury in the 60's?? Haven't seen so many hippies in one place for years. Some our age stuck in a greying time warp. Others living the lifestyle... still others fresh faced wannabees out of high school! This is the first time we have stayed in this area of Bangkok. The street has been blocked off to traffic since the bombings which only adds to the atmosphere. Balloons, carnival clowns, tattoo artists, beads, leather , bangles & flashy artsy clothing....did I mention food?? Great pad Thai Satay and Banana pancakes as well as an assortment of deep fried bugs (think I''ll pass).
Got a place with a pool which was nice but didn't make up for the noisy neighbours. We finally fell asleep at about 2AM and had a wake up call for 4:30... on the plane to Cambodia.
Phnom Pehn... our first impressions of Cambodia... Well it helps to have both the president and the king drive by to say hello as we entered the city. They were going in the other direction but close counts. The next biggest impression was that the country was very wealthy compared to Myanmar. We travelled at least 7km by motorbike to the bus station and didn't hit one pot hole.. didn't even see one.
There are many new private cars & motor cycles. Buses aren't over crowded & you can see in to the distance!
The touts, however, are pretty bad here. The first 24 hrs are always the hardest as you get to know the ropes of a new country. Paid $7 for a $5 ticket to Siem Riep.... Oh well, we're learning.
Back on transport to Siem Riep we passed the flattest country I've seen since the Canadian prairies. Mostly sand we kept looking for the water but it just isn't there. Palm trees and sand gave you the illusion of lapping water. No such luck... hot and dry. We are away from the cool of the highlands. The houses are more ornate than Myanmar. Higher off the ground with more ornate roof decoration. No bamboo ramps to the front door the stairs lead up to a level high enough to park a car as well as your cow.
Here, in Siem Riep we took the day off to recover from the hours of transit. Tomorrow we will go to Ankor Wat.

From Bustling Yangon to Beautiful Beaches and Back Again

Wandering through the busy market streets there is chaos and order. You certainly couldn't be claustrophobic and travel easily here! Sitting on a small patch of sidewalk vendors sell all manor of vegetables, fish, meat and chickens. Even flowers as well as rice and beans. Ate some more street food then checked out the goods market. Lots of competition here... hope we get good prices when we return.
So many people making a kind of living selling fast food on the streets. I wonder how much they pay to rent a piece of sidewalk? Our friendly samosa man has a charcoal burner, one pan, some plastic bags, sauce and oil. Not a big investment.... I hope it makes him some money.

On Feb 1st (happy birthday Dave!) we head out to Ngwe Saung Beach by bus. If the bus doesn't start try incense and a prayer! It seemed to work. That or the aged spark plugs gave it one more try. Just as we were about to board this dodgy bus we were redirected to another. Seems the taxi dropped us off at the wrong place. Good thing we checked or we would have been sitting on grapefruit all the way to the beach.
The drive takes seven hours and is only 140+ kms. Gives you an idea of the shape the roads are in.
Today begins a three day kick back. The terraine we travel through is instantly different. Going west the land is flat and wet. Though it is the dry season many large wet patches remain. Ther are a lot of fish farms here. If you're reading this Russell I think the way you fished would be a lot more exciting. You can't even see the fish for the colour of the water. Could be a good idea to become vegetarian for the next few days!
Rice seems to be what most people are growing. Some peanuts and a reed which is used for weaving. Quaint bridges cross the canal. Some only a couple of bamboo poles to walk on and others are very intricate.
Our bus butts are pretty worn out. This bus might be a step up from the grapefruit 'truck' but there is little or no padding. Only making us slightly more uncomfortable than the two police checks we had to go through on the way.
Closer to the beach, after passing three large rivers, we get to an area of deforestation. I'd like to think they have reforested with teak but we found out the land has been sold by the government to the private sector for biofuels and rubber trees. This area was jungle with monkeys and elephants in it just three years ago. Now we drive for miles looking at rows and rows of little trees. Only jungle on the horizonBesides a monkey being tortured in Yangon, we have seen only birds, cats, dogs and farm animals. Passed an airport with a couple of fighter jets and a tour bus plane. Must be getting close. Not far from the airport the roads improved. Concrete slabs to the beach.
In town we are encouraged to "see my hotel... no cost... just looking! You like, you buy!" By tri-shaw and motor bike we arrived at a quaint little beach side resort. At $10/night we couldn't resist. Our friend Faye (with the shaky knees) was sunning herself in front of our bungalo.... we had no idea she was here!
The Bay of Bengal outside our window with waves crashing in thunderous applause at our arrival. Great body surfing.
We spent a wonderful few days here. Swimming, surfing, reading, resting and eating (yes we ate fish and it was amazing!!) The air is cleaner here but still the sunset reflects the eternal smog in the Asian atmosphere.
During our morning walk we watch a fisherman. His body taught, ready to spring in to action with his throw net. Monks walk casually along the shore with no rice bowls in hand. The mornings are crisp and cool while the afternoon climbs to around 35C.
The walk to town along this deserted stretch of white is idyllic. There are no seadoos... no noisy tourists. Just a couple of elephants wandering along with one of the keepers asleep in his saddle. The odd horse (read large pony) gallops hell bent for leather along the hard packed sand.
Our three night stay including a couple of dinners and snacks cost us around $50 Cdn. We felt safe and comfortable here even when they couldn't remember where they put our money belt.... we knew it would show up.
Back in Yangon on the 4th. We have a full day here tomorrow then hop on the plane to Bangkok and connect the next day to Phnom Phen.
We brought back a good laid back feeling from the beach as well as a few fleas we found in our freshly washed laundry. I guess you can't have everything. Good thing we have the flea powder with us and enough time to get it all washed.
Ain't life grand?

From Bustling Yangon to Beautiful Beaches and Back Again

Wandering through the busy market streets there is chaos and order. You certainly couldn't be claustrophobic and travel easily here! Sitting on a small patch of sidewalk vendors sell all manor of vegetables, fish, meat and chickens. Even flowers as well as rice and beans. Ate some more street food then checked out the goods market. Lots of competition here... hope we get good prices when we return.
So many people making a kind of living selling fast food on the streets. I wonder how much they pay to rent a piece of sidewalk? Our friendly samosa man has a charcoal burner, one pan, some plastic bags, sauce and oil. Not a big investment.... I hope it makes him some money.

On Feb 1st (happy birthday Dave!) we head out to Ngwe Saung Beach by bus. If the bus doesn't start try incense and a prayer! It seemed to work. That or the aged spark plugs gave it one more try. Just as we were about to board this dodgy bus we were redirected to another. Seems the taxi dropped us off at the wrong place. Good thing we checked or we would have been sitting on grapefruit all the way to the beach.
The drive takes seven hours and is only 140+ kms. Gives you an idea of the shape the roads are in.
Today begins a three day kick back. The terraine we travel through is instantly different. Going west the land is flat and wet. Though it is the dry season many large wet patches remain. Ther are a lot of fish farms here. If you're reading this Russell I think the way you fished would be a lot more exciting. You can't even see the fish for the colour of the water. Could be a good idea to become vegetarian for the next few days!
Rice seems to be what most people are growing. Some peanuts and a reed which is used for weaving. Quaint bridges cross the canal. Some only a couple of bamboo poles to walk on and others are very intricate.
Our bus butts are pretty worn out. This bus might be a step up from the grapefruit 'truck' but there is little or no padding. Only making us slightly more uncomfortable than the two police checks we had to go through on the way.
Closer to the beach, after passing three large rivers, we get to an area of deforestation. I'd like to think they have reforested with teak but we found out the land has been sold by the government to the private sector for biofuels and rubber trees. This area was jungle with monkeys and elephants in it just three years ago. Now we drive for miles looking at rows and rows of little trees. Only jungle on the horizonBesides a monkey being tortured in Yangon, we have seen only birds, cats, dogs and farm animals. Passed an airport with a couple of fighter jets and a tour bus plane. Must be getting close. Not far from the airport the roads improved. Concrete slabs to the beach.
In town we are encouraged to "see my hotel... no cost... just looking! You like, you buy!" By tri-shaw and motor bike we arrived at a quaint little beach side resort. At $10/night we couldn't resist. Our friend Faye (with the shaky knees) was sunning herself in front of our bungalo.... we had no idea she was here!
The Bay of Bengal outside our window with waves crashing in thunderous applause at our arrival. Great body surfing.
We spent a wonderful few days here. Swimming, surfing, reading, resting and eating (yes we ate fish and it was amazing!!) The air is cleaner here but still the sunset reflects the eternal smog in the Asian atmosphere.
During our morning walk we watch a fisherman. His body taught, ready to spring in to action with his throw net. Monks walk casually along the shore with no rice bowls in hand. The mornings are crisp and cool while the afternoon climbs to around 35C.
The walk to town along this deserted stretch of white is idyllic. There are no seadoos... no noisy tourists. Just a couple of elephants wandering along with one of the keepers asleep in his saddle. The odd horse (read large pony) gallops hell bent for leather along the hard packed sand.
Our three night stay including a couple of dinners and snacks cost us around $50 Cdn. We felt safe and comfortable here even when they couldn't remember where they put our money belt.... we knew it would show up.
Back in Yangon on the 4th. We have a full day here tomorrow then hop on the plane to Bangkok and connect the next day to Phnom Phen.
We brought back a good laid back feeling from the beach as well as a few fleas we found in our freshly washed laundry. I guess you can't have everything. Good thing we have the flea powder with us and enough time to get it all washed.
Ain't life grand?

Ming ga la doh Cemetary (Taukkyan)

Thoughts of my father, his friends, their fear and their sorrow. Here at the WW II Memorial Cemetary I picture my father as he was just a few years ago when he came here to bury fellow Royal Canadian Airforce Members. Their wreckage was found by a farmer clearing away the jungle. My father and a few others were brought here by the Canadian Forces to take part in the ceremony. He and his fellow air force members were so proud, so sad and so touched ... still as if the war was just yesterday.
"So much has changed in Burma" my father said when he returned home. So much had changed in the country now known as Myanmar. But only the body's aging had changed those men. Their hearts were still fresh with memories of friendship and loss. My heart feels here as it did in Hiroshima. So many lives lost to extinguish greed and the need to control. So many needlessly taken from us. The question is.... "Did we learn anything?" I think not!

Ming ga la doh Cemetary (Taukkyan)

Thoughts of my father, his friends, their fear and their sorrow. Here at the WW II Memorial Cemetary I picture my father as he was just a few years ago when he came here to bury fellow Royal Canadian Airforce Members. Their wreckage was found by a farmer clearing away the jungle. My father and a few others were brought here by the Canadian Forces to take part in the ceremony. He and his fellow air force members were so proud, so sad and so touched ... still as if the war was just yesterday.
"So much has changed in Burma" my father said when he returned home. So much had changed in the country now known as Myanmar. But only the body's aging had changed those men. Their hearts were still fresh with memories of friendship and loss. My heart feels here as it did in Hiroshima. So many lives lost to extinguish greed and the need to control. So many needlessly taken from us. The question is.... "Did we learn anything?" I think not!